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从白龙洞到之江滨--一段跨越千年的旅行(散文)

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九州方圆44  中级会员   发表于:2017-04-23 09:40   只看该作者
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                      从白龙洞到之江滨

                      一段跨越千年的旅行

                         (中英双语)                                                                              作者:余震南        

    最初听到杭州这个名称还远在20世纪70年代末的福建省南平市。童年一切陌生城市名称在心中激起的全是遐想和向往,亦因在很小便于一个五一节去过福州,那节日迷幻的世界似乎已成为一切大城市之标识符。当时父亲从江苏省驻福建办事处调动到了驻杭州办事处,本以为能“近水楼台先得月”的我却迟迟没有踏上杭州之行。一直等全家搬到了镇江情况依旧没有改变。

    镇江和杭州之间的距离从童年到少年都都没有明确过,距离神密感来源于金山宝塔下的一方石洞—白龙洞。一方石洞里还有一方小洞,传说中通往杭州钱塘江畔即之江之滨。然而小洞极为狭窄深邃又阴暗隐晦,对这般探奇一贯缺乏勇气。或曰在20世纪80年代中期,浙江小百花越剧团经常到我市来演出,母亲是越剧迷,我也便跟去看热闹。可对异域方言和冗长的剧目很不习惯,很早就闹着要走,常常扫了母亲的兴。无论如何剧名倒记得一两个《珍珠塔》,《白蛇传》便在其间。江浙的千年情缘似乎早早固化在后一部经典之中。

    往后杭州剪影仅仅停留在数次南方之行的列车车窗外,浑粗的钢条下一汪清澈钱塘江水开阔地流向东方,直到目之可及。也可见六和塔立于江边,比国内见过的宝塔粗壮敦实许多。来来回回的过桥每段不过三五分钟,还是列车快进站了开得尤为缓慢。浙南温州平阳之行回程转车也不过于杭州停留个把小时,从公交站到火车站间的景象每个城市处都有类似点。

    4月22日晨,我们早早踏上了之江之旅。唯此次不想路过,专程去体味那一方异域山水—在距离上并不遥远,时空上跨越千年神奇。

龙井村坐落于碧色环抱的狮峰山下。那里的山,山山有脊,脊脊锋刃,却没有落下一块土。看不见山的肌体—黄色,只看得山的肌肤—绿色。翠绿下看似层层梯田,那便是依山而上的茶园。它层层叠叠却并未覆盖一整座一整座山体,反被杉树、杨树和杂树包裹着。未见纷乱之色,姹紫嫣红却在一边一片翠绿和几点鹅黄中展现着那里的主色调—茶色。

    茶是龙井自然风光的主题,是龙井贸易的主题也成了龙井居家主题。站在高高山冈向下望去,龙井人家深深隐藏在山谷中,三两层的屋子绵延于山谷小道两侧,一片片翠绿掩映下却显得并不延绵。它时而被遮断,时而被掩抑,如同藏在袖笼里的一串手镯,走动中忽闪忽闪的一露。也有老旧房子,木梯上一长串晒台。闲适的农人坐在一方八仙桌前剥着鲜绿的豆米,应和山水间悠悠情怀。

    我们这一路走来,石阶路叫做“十里琅珰”传说古代从钱塘江边往来的货郎担通往村里便走这一条捷径。并没有听到拨浪鼓和吆喝声,只见一路茶树,矮墩墩的。修剪了一茬又一茬。新出的嫩叶一顺溜掐到根,清明前采过了。在这享誉世界的龙井茶园前我想到的并不止这十里货郎担走过的路,它是否成为当面“茶马古道”之起点呢?……那一条更远的路,如今连接的快了,却隐隐听见远古的一串马蹄,声声驼铃,还有一袋袋货物压在背上。脚印,一串绵长的脚印通向跨越地平线的西方…… 

    上山的路曲折,下山的路陡峭,通往江边的路迂回。就像那个名字—九曲十八涧。涧水为跌落的山泉,在山谷汩汩地流动。它拨开了植被,拨开了泥土,直洗得岩石也清澈墩圆。从未见过如此多涧水,纵横交错地流淌,却并不漫延。它们一条条横着路面切入溪流。我并没有去数是否真的横过了十八条,却在淙淙的流水和哗哗冲击声中得到回归大自然的快乐。山泉为含蓄的雨露,那不落一荒的翠绿正是含漱它的口,源源从齿间渗出,直到若干个晴日之后还流淌着。深涧被泉水一路挖掘出来,清澈间一路深深浅浅。浅处不没脚踝,深处及腰及胸。我曾听说过这样的话:“过清的水无鱼。”不知这溪涧里有没有游过鱼,当下却并未见过些许鱼虫。没有去专心印证这样的话,莫约水流过激也容不得鱼虫停留。这一路淙淙哗哗的声响容不得它们立足?也推动我前行,跨踏一路石墩子被人流“冲走了”。有无数的人前行,我在其间并没有茶马古道者的远大前程。一处沿着峭壁跌落的飞瀑前终结了一路淙淙哗哗之音。又行两里路,到达之江之滨,我的行程已接近终点。猜想不出远道商人脑海里的路程图和他们满满的信心,便从一路清澈的溪涧里走向一路清澈的校园—之江大学。

    对之江大学的兴趣来源于出行贴上哪一首豪迈的校歌:“门对江潮,沧海日,六和月,万山环立仰秦望。学以济时,诚为体,仁为用,服膺校训为民光。”第一段汇沧海、日月、六合之灵气,环万山拱立之势。欲行沧海之远,先立胸襟之大,而胸襟不在乎争雄天下却立志“学以济时”诚仁并用。建校期间的大学精神淋漓尽致地得到展现。跨入一方校门也称得上“寻歌而往” “踏歌而入”。

    之江大学的氛围同其它学院别无二致,青青校园,宁静致远。并没有传出朗朗书声,却多研读着,人多而不闹的地方唯有学府了。课堂里满座,操场上也有几人打球,轻轻鸟语却始终多于人声。沿一条窄窄的水泥路来到一座西式古建筑前,一座废弃的教堂式建筑上标明了年代以供人参观—建成于1919年。美国私人投资。中国很多西学学府都有着类似历史,包括著名的清华园在内。西方科学技术的传播有史以来与其独特宗教传播相互捆绑。形成民国时期西学学院统一模式。周围几座历史建筑多建成于1935年前后,期间包括图书馆。历史之庄重和校园的静谧在这一方空间混合出一种沉思。我抬头仰望那古老的门堂上写着一行褪色的英文:“Severance Hall” “慎思堂”从中西文化差异上来讲,我认为此一“慎思堂”同中国古代文化价值中的“谨言慎思”完全不一样。其初衷应为基督教文化中深思对主的感恩。因此又远疏于当今学院弘扬的科学思考。思考的内容虽不一致,但都在思考,从拿来主义的角度看立在那里也不乏现实意义。

    隐隐回忆起当年看过的《白蛇传》从金山寺出发的许仙并没有先来到断桥边,书中只说来到钱塘江畔。当时远不在之江大学的年代,亦或之江这个钱塘江段称号也是后来起的。如果一定要我牵强地把金山寺和之江之滨作一个艺术关联,我还宁愿联系到一个学府。让古城的文化静静地同杭州相连,通过一湾钱塘水流向深远的大洋……




[ 本帖最后由 九州方圆44 于 2017-4-23 09:52 编辑 ]
 
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九州方圆44  中级会员   发表于:2017-04-23 20:40   只看该作者
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“一边一片翠绿”(误)“一片一片翠绿”(正)
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九州方圆44  中级会员   发表于:2017-04-24 13:09   只看该作者
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3楼

“少年都都没有明确过” (误)
“少年都没有明确过”(正)
“距离神密感”(误)
“距离神秘感”(正)

我有打错字的地方,但我若是中英双语创作,中文和英文都是直接在电脑上创作的。若中、英、日三语创作,三国语言也是直接在电脑上打的。这样思维连贯一气呵成。但打错字再也正常不过。

也就是我从来不打草稿,直接一边想一边电脑打字。


[ 本帖最后由 九州方圆44 于 2017-4-24 13:13 编辑 ]
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九州方圆44  中级会员   发表于:2017-04-24 16:38   只看该作者
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“九曲十八涧”(误)
“九溪十八涧”(正)
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九州方圆44  中级会员   发表于:2017-04-24 22:39   只看该作者
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5楼

                From White Dragon Cave to the Riversideof QianTang

                                         A Journey across the Millennium  


       The first time I heard thename of HangZhou was far back in the end of 1970’s when I stayed in city NanPing FuJian province. All the name of strange cities stirred in my heart a longing and desire in my childhood for I had paid a visit to FuZhou earlier on a labor’s day and the illusionary beauty of the festival might have turned out to be a mark of all big cities in my mind. Around that age my father transferred his work from JiangSu Agriculture Company FuJian branch office to HangZhuo branch office. I had thought I could take the advantage to visit HangZhou easily but the journey was lagged so far aback that I did not make it even long after myfamily’s resettlement in the city of ZhenJiang.

       I had never made clear the distance between ZhenJiang and HangZhou in my childhood years. Then the space turned to be a mystery owning to a rock cave in the park of JinShan under the Pagoda. There’s a small tunnel inside the cave and said to be inconnection to HangZhouin The Tale of White Lady. But the tunnel’s too narrow and dim forme to have courage to try. I lack the kind of courage for ever. It might be in the middle of 1980’s XiaoBaiHua ShaoXing opera Troupe frequently visited ZhenJiang in their touring performance. My mother’s a theater fan in the opera so I often followed her to watch performance. Then I found myself unaccustomed to ShaoXing dialect and the lengthy episode so frequently cried for return before the end. Whatever dramas had I watched I can only one or two names in my mind among them are the Pearl Tower and the Taleof White Lady. The predestined love between the two provinces were constructed in the classical fiction and drama long before.

       Afterward the sketch of HangZhou in my mind was only a flash out of the windows on train compartment on my several journeys to the south. Beyond the strong steel skeleton of bridge QianTang a vast spread of clear water in River QianTang flow endlessly to the east until the horizon. LiuHe pagoda also made its presence there sturdier than all the pagodas I had ever seen. Every time the bridge pass costs three or five minutes owning to the speed reduce of locomotive before it enters the railway station. On my journeys back from PingYang of south ZheJiang provinceI only stayed in the city of HangZhou for a few hours for train transfer. And the scene and story between bus stopand railway station could be similar in every big city.        

        Early in the morning on April 22 we set off our journey to River QianTang. This time we did not prepare to go flash by so went especially to taste the scene. It isn’t along distance inreality but prolonged to be millennia in between by the tale.  

The village of LongJing locates under mount ShiFeng(Lionpeak) in the vast green coverage. Every hill there has a ridge and every ridge there has a sharp edge. No earth or rock can be found exposed there. We can seeonly the skin of the mountain there but not its muscle—the skin in green. Theterrace like structure happens to be the tea garden that rises up the slope.The tea bushes climb up step by step while not having the whole mountain in itscoverage. In stead they were besieged by aspens, cedars and many unspecified.We can not perceive variety of colors but vast greenery with few dots of yellow—the tea colored tinge.  

Tea composes the theme of the scenery here, forms the topic of business and constitutes the every day family life. Overlooking on top of the hill wecan see village houses hidden among the valleys. Two or three storied farm houses are lining along the valley path continuously. But in the view undergreen coverage it’s discontinuous like the bracelet of a lady walking that makeits appearance at intervals. There’re also some old structured houses with along wooden ladder leading to a long wooden veranda. At times a peasant housewife would sit there shelling peas at leisure. She works in tune with the leisureof village life among the hills and the water.

For all those stone steps we had stepped on they’re called “Ten miles of selling way”. It’s said in ancient times the venders by the river of QianTangwould take the shortcut and travel along the selling way to promote their business in the village. But alone the way I did not hear any sound of the rattle drums or the crying for business. What we can see were nothing but lines of short tea bushes. They were trimmed again and again. The newly grew tender leaves were cut by the roots. They had been picked before the tomb sweeping day. Inthis world famous tea garden what I brought to the mind were not only the “Ten miles of selling way” but also the question whether it could be the start off point for the ancient Tea-Horse-Road?…… That is a road longer. Now we have speedy means while the sound of hoof beats and the ring of camel bell spread faintly from the ancient, plus the bags of goods on the back of those animals. Foot prints,a long line of foot prints, stretched far beyond the horizontal line…….




[ 本帖最后由 九州方圆44 于 2017-4-24 22:43 编辑 ]
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九州方圆44  中级会员   发表于:2017-04-24 22:39   只看该作者
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6楼

The path up hill paved in a winding course, the path down hill sharp and the path to the riverside zigzagging. The riverside channel is called Nine Greeks and 18 Gullies to be exact. The water in the gullies comes from spring in the mountain that flew down and it keeps its course in the gurgling. The flow peeled off the greenery, cut deep into the earth, washed clean and grinded round the rocks under. I had never seen so many gullies. They flow and cut into each other but do not pervade. The gullies cut their way across the road and into the brook one by one. I did not count whether I had forded across 18 gullies but was amused by the gurgling sound that brought me back to the nature. The mountain spring held the rainwater in its mouth and the emerald green without a gap serves the mouth with the water exuding between the teeth. The flow last for countless sunny day after the rain stop. The gullies were dug out by the flow all the way deep and shallow unevenly. The shallow can not submerge your ankle and the deep up to your waist or even breast. Once I had heard the saying “The crystal water breeds no fish.”  I’m not sure whether there had been fishes or bugs in the entity. Presently I saw none of them. I did not specially go to prove it. Maybe the rapids won’t contain the fishes and the bugs. The gurgling sound may not tolerate their stand? The rapids won’t tolerate me too and urged me to rush ahead on the stones then pushed me away in the crowds. There were countless people on the way among them I had no grand ambition like those on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. In front of a cliff fall all the formal gurgling ended. Another two miles ahead I reached the riverside of QianTang thus my destination approached. I can not imagine the ambition of the merchants who came from far away nor the routes they designed. While I just followed the crystal brook that rushed me into the tranquil campus— HangZhou University.     

My interests in HangZhou University originate from a university anthem from the post for our departure: “Facing the tide, facing the sunrise in day and rounded moon at night we stand in besiege of mountains that overlook the country. We learn to meet the demands of our era in sincerity and benevolence. We learn to practice our role and serve the people.” The first paragraph accumulated the nature spirits of sun, moon and tide. That the school stands respectable to the surrounding mountains. Before we set off our journey beyond the ocean we had to set up a grand ambition and that ambition not to conquer the land but to meet the demand as well as to serve the people in sincerity and benevolence. The song vividly exemplified the university spirits so my entrance could be entitled as “Seeking the song” or “Following the song”.

The atmosphere of HangZhou University presents nothing in different to other Universities in its tranquility and green color. No sound of reading aloud spread out while the students were in their reading. We can find crowded but quiet place only in university nowadays. The class room were filled and some students could be found playing on the sports ground. While the gentle chirrup of bird always prevails human sound. A narrow cement road led us to a deserted western style ancient church building. A corner stone marked its establishment in the year 1919 for visitor to admire. That’s an American private investment. Many Chinese western studies have similar history including the famous TsingHua Campus. From the beginning the spread of western science and technology were combined with their unique religion. It had become a uniform code for western studies in time for Republic of China. A few other constructions nearby marked their establishment around 1935 including the library. The heavy weight of history and the tranquility of campus mixed in our contemplation, for which I raised up my head to observe the English title up the door in faded color—Severance hall. Considering the difference between Chinese culture and the western’s I don’t think the line values the ancient Chinese value of speaking less and thinking more. It could be a Christian meditation to be thankful to the God. So the distance between the value and science thinking could be even farther away. Though the contemplators think in different ways it all could be named contemplation. In the sense of adoption and taking initiative in the use the erect could be of present significance there.               

As I faintly recalled the contents of the Tale of White Lady the hero XuXian didn’t reach the bridge cutoff first. He firstly reached the bank of River QianTang. The tale set in an age much earlier to the university era even the river didn’t name so as ZhiJiang. If I had to forcefully make a connection between temple JinShan and city HangZhou I would like my destination to be in a university. Let the ancient story of our city set off its journey quietly from river QianTang and travel far away across the ocean.

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九州方圆44  中级会员   发表于:2017-04-25 10:49   只看该作者
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7楼

“它是否成为当面“茶马古道”之起点呢?”(误)
“它是否成为当年“茶马古道”之起点呢?”(正)
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说话的云  版主   发表于:2017-04-25 20:48   只看该作者
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8楼

你我之间的缘分,触手可及。

http://blog.sina.com.cn/u/1248899787
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西芹333  初级会员   发表于:2017-04-28 09:51   只看该作者
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蓝天梦之四  初级会员   发表于:2017-05-18 18:27   只看该作者
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